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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.